Today is a day for walking the machair: unpaved country roads through fields and pastures, along dunes and beaches. Unspoilt countryside, with small-scale agriculture, and pristine beaches, this is what the Flemish coast must have been looking like 150 years ago, were it not for the hills at the horizon! I pitch in the dunes just south of Aisgernis golf course, but have to walk another mile and back to Loch Hallan to get access to water. 12,2 miles today.